Intro To Making A Cycle Powered Generator

Via Steward Community Woodland

Note: This is NOT a set of step-by-step instructions for a specific design. We have built quite a few cycle powered generators, each one is different, based on what bits we had available. This guide is intended to give you pointers and pass on some of what we have learned, but ultimately it is your ingenuity and the materials and tools available to you that will dictate the design.

The basic requirements:

1. Cycle and stand: You need pedals on a crank, and something comfortable to sit on. Additionally the whole thing needs to be made stable in some way so that it doesn't fall over or move about when in use.

2. Generator and regulator: You need an electrical generator that is made to turn at rotational speeds high enough to produce the required output. You probably need some way to regulate the output to a reasonable speed.

3. Drive and gearing: The crank and the generator need to be linked together in some way and you almost certainly need some form of gearing to reach the desired speed of rotation.

Cycle and stand:

-Old bikes vs. exercise bikes.

Unwanted bikes can be very cheap (ie. free) and easy to obtain. They have good bearings so little power is wasted overcoming friction and they often have large back wheels that make good pulleys (you will see why that could be important later). However, you will need to make some form of stand to make the bike stay upright and stationary while pedaled. Further more, it makes sense environmentally and ethically that, if the bike works or can be made to work, it is better being used as a bike (thus replacing more environmentally destructive forms of transport). There are always people who want working bikes, there are charities that send thousands of serviceable bikes to the third world every year.

Exercise bikes are an interesting option. Loads of people have bought exercise bikes thinking they would actually use them but the novelty soon wears off and they become a waste of space. The free ads papers, boot sales and recycling centers are full of them and many end up in the landfill. This means that they can be cheap to obtain. You won’t have to build a stand because they already have one and they are easily adjustable to fit different people. Additionally, the fly wheel will prove useful. But beware - not all exercise bikes are good for making cycle generators. Many have no bearings and many really cheap ones have no fly wheel but rely on friction on the crank to provide the ‘exercise’. There is very little scope for using such a device.

Generator and regulator:

-Alternators vs. Permanent magnet motors

The world is full of an increasing number of cars - built quick and cheap, used and abused and then sent to the junk yard. There are therefore loads of old alternators waiting to provide a regulated 13.4 volts DC to whoever can rotate them fast enough. You acquire them very cheaply (or free) and they even come with brackets and a pulley already fitted. Alternators provide an obvious source of power and so many people have used them in home made cycle generators or wind power systems. However alternators require very high rotation speeds which mean you need to provide very high gearing ratios. Further more, they need ‘exciting’ and are designed to provide up to 500 watts while a person is likely to manage something more like 60 watts. This means that you need to provide some simple electronic wizardry to start the alternator generating any power at all and also to prevent it from demanding excessive amounts of power from the cyclist.

Permanent magnet motors are another option. They come in an amazing variety of shapes and sizes. We have used a Whirlpool washing machine motor with great success. We have also used motors out of old computer magnetic tape spools. You could use electric fan motors from cars. They can produce a couple of amps at 12 volts so using two of those with their shafts joined could be worth a try. Because of the variety of motors available their specifications will obviously also vary significantly (ie. the rotational speeds required, the output in terms of watts, the voltage range produced etc.). One thing you can be sure of is that the output of a generator built with one of these will need to be regulated in some way for most applications. The regulation could be in the form of a voltage regulating circuit or simply a large capacity battery placed in line to be charged (which should cause the output voltage to drop to little over the battery voltage).

Drive and gearing:

-Shafts, cogs, wheels, chains, and belts.

The pedals of your machine must somehow turn your chosen generator at a suitable speed. Your average cyclist will find it comfortable to pedal at around 60rpm (ie. one rotation of the pedals every second) and it would not be unreasonable to base your calculations on that figure. If you happen to have found a generator that produces your required output (eg .5amps worth of 12volts) at just 50 RPM then you could find a way to link the two without gearing. However the chances are you will need to step up the speed significantly.

Gearing could consist of a gearbox full of cogs. These are not easy to build but there are small gearboxes available to those with the initiative to find them. For example we found a hand cranked grinding disk with 20:1 gearing. You could use a simple rubber wheel on the shaft of your generator which is pressed against the rim of your bike's wheel/flywheel. The difference in circumference of the two wheels provides the ratio of the gearing you obtain. We used this method fairly successfully using a homemade wheel made out of wood and plastic hose but found that under heavy load slipping could occur and we were concerned that vibrations would reduce the life of the bearings and brushes in the motor.

With enough cogs and chains from old bikes you could multiply your gearing up to the desired level but it would be noisy and inefficient. Unless the gearing you require is between 3:1 and 9:1 you will probably have to use another method.

If you are using an alternator then it will need at least 1,800 RPM before it produces output. This would require a gearing ratio of about 30:1. When you consider that the highest ratio on your average bike provides about 3:1 (eg. 52 teeth to 14 teeth) then you see the potential problem with using alternators. The usual way to solve the problem is to use the back wheel of the bike as a massive pulley (assuming it is a racing bike with a 26 or 27 inch wheel). You then use a large fan belt to drive the (usually 3 inch) pulley on the alternator which means you provided an additional gearing ratio of about 9:1 and a total ratio of about 27:1. Belts big enough are not easy to find. They can be purchased fairly easily and if you are on a tight budget you can improvise with old stockings etc. If you wish to build a generator on these principles then there is a booklet available from the Campaign For Real Events which describes in detail how to do it.

We have successfully used a belt from the fly wheel of an exercise bike to a homemade pulley fitted to the motor. The flywheels tend to be about 14 inch diameter which isn't very big but the motors we have used require far lower speeds than alternators so the gearing ratio has proved more than adequate. We found suitable belts in old washing machines.

Where to get stuff:

Yard sales provide a good source of exercise bikes, unwanted bicycles and bicycle bits. Recycling centers can provide strange motors and gearing bits, washing machines (for belts, PM motors and pulleys). Junk yards and dumped cars provide alternators, fan belts, fan motors, pulleys, fuses, fuse boxes, wiring, switches etc.

How to Reinforce An Entry Door

Your home is something that needs to be secure and safe. One of the most important factors in the security of your home is the strength of the entry doors. Burglars who break into homes look for the quickest and easiest way. Most doors can be kicked down with 3 kicks, and in 3 - 5 minutes the criminal is in and out. If a criminal is unable to take down the door with 3 kicks they will usually move onto the next house. With the average police response time at 20 minutes, it's important to make sure your doors are secure.

Whether in a bug in situation or just wanting to keep criminals out it's important to secure your doors. For starters, entry doors need to be solid wood or metal doors with little to no glass and feature a quality deadbolt. Glass might be pretty and decorative but it does nothing for your security. Glass is easily broken and can allow a criminal to get right in. The door frame itself is something that needs to be closely inspected. Most contractors skimp when it comes to securing the door frame to the wall and this can be a critical weak point in the door. The deadbolt might hold but if the frame doesn't hold it comes down just as easy. If you don't think the contractor used enough screws, get some 3 inch wood screws and add them all around the frame.

A beefed up striker plate should also be added along with 3 inch wood screws. Most stock hardware comes with weak 1 inch screws. Replace these with 3 inch wood screws that go all the way into the wall framing. Do the same for the hinges. Replace all the stock screws on the hinges with 3 inch wood screws for added strength. Additionally a door lock guard and striker plate guard can also be purchased to further reinforce the lock from coming out of the door itself and keeping the deadbolt inside the door frame.

A reinforced entry door isn't going to hold up to a battering ram, but could buy you some time and allow you and your family to get to a safe room and get yourself armed. These are some simple and cheap tips that can be used on any door at all entry points of the house. Protecting your home and family should be the number one priority and making sure the doors are secure is the first step in securing their safety.

For more information check out the following videos:

How to Build A Rain Barrel System

If you already garden or plan to garden you should also be planning to put in a rain barrel system. Rain barrels catch the rain water and gives you free water to water your garden. A system can be set up for less than $50 and give you hundreds of gallons of free water. They are very easy to set up and are comprised of 55 gallon barrels that you can get from a number of sources. Below is a Lowes instructional video on setting up rain barrel system. If you have a garden this is something you need to consider.

How to Browse the Web Anonymously

I know a lot of preppers out there are concerned about big brother tracking their moves in the internet. Nowadays anyone can access your IP address and track every site you visit. This is an invasion of privacy although the government does it anyway. There are some services out there that offer ways to browse the web anonymously. Some cost money and some require you to download software onto your computer. If you've been waiting for a free, simple, and easy way to browse the web anonymously wait no longer.

Enter in ItsHidden. ItsHidden is a free service that allows you to surf the web anonymously. There is no software to download, and no subscription fee. ItsHidden creates a virtual private network on your computer that routes all activity through their servers in the Netherlands. ItsHidden was setup with torrent users in mind who want to hide the fact that they download files.

ItsHidden uses 128 bit encryption and doesn't save any of your own files. It's 100% secure and keeps anyone from viewing your browsing information. I have been using ItsHidden for the past couple days and I must say it works great. I recommend anyone and everyone to start using this service. It runs from your computer so any activity, downloading or browsing is hidden. I haven't experienced any problems, everything is still just as fast and works 100%.

Click here to register for the service. After registration, click here for setup instructions on Windows XP, and click here for setup instructions on Windows Vista.

How to Prolong the Life of your Automobile Part 2

In the first part of this series I went over the basics of maintaining your vehicle based on 3000 mile intervals. This mainly includes visual checks of all fluid levels, tire pressure, and proper function of vehicle options. There are more hands on tasks that are needed less frequently that I will help you with in this part. This will apply to most vehicles, new or old, but always consult your owners manual or Hanes manual for you're vehicle's specific needs.

Every 10,000 miles or annually you want to perform these tasks:
1. Change Oil & Filter
2. Replace All Filters (Air, Fuel, PCV)
3. Check Brakes & Wheel Bearings
4. Check all Belts including Timing belt
5. Check temperature for engine thermostat
6. Replace spark plugs & cap & rotor (where applicable)

Every 20,000 miles or 2 years you want to perform these tasks:
1. Bleed brakes & renew fluid
2. Flush cooling system
3. Replace automatic transmission fluid (filter, screen & magnets)

This about sums up the regular maintenance you can perform on your vehicle. Most of this can be performed by yourself (with the right tools of course). Here is a link to download a Vehicle Maintenance Check List. This would be good to print out and keep up to date with your vehicle. Doing the work yourself will benefit you in many ways. It gives you a sense of pride, you learn how to work on a car, and you save a lot of money by not paying a shop to maintain the vehicle. Any major auto parts store has a repair manual for your vehicle. It will show you in detail how to perform any of the formentioned tasks, and I recommend you have one for every vehicle you own.

TIP: Store some extra oil, filters, air filters, spark plugs, and other easy to change items for your car. Especially buy them in bulk if they are on sale, or you have a coupon.

Tips on how to live from your car

How to Make a Laser Mag-Lite

Here is a really cool video on how to make a laser flashlight. It shows you how to turn an ordinary mini Mag-Lite into a powerful laser beam. This laser is so powerful that it can light a match, pop a balloon or light a fuse. It might not be the "perfect" survival tool because it's questionable as to how long the batteries would last but for a quick fire starter this should be able to light any tinder you have. Watch the video for the parts list and instructions. If I can get a cheap DVD burner I'm going to give this a try!




**Caution: This is a very powerful laser and WILL burn your skin. Keep the laser away from your skin and any animals skin. NEVER point into ANYONE'S eyes, this will cause permanent damage.

How to Prolong the Life of your Automobile Part 1

To me prepping has become a hobby. I look at life and the world totally different since I started prepping. Prepping is a mindset or even a way of life; it's not just putting some canned goods and batteries into storage (not that doing this would be a bad thing). Taking care of your vehicle falls right into place with the prepper mindset. You must prepare for potential vehicular problems, and not only keep a good Car Emergency Kit, you must practice preventative maintenance on your vehicle to prolong the life of it.

It's important to follow your vehicle's specific maintenance schedule. The following information is generic and would apply to any vehicle. Performing your own maintenance can be rewarding and a lot cheaper than paying for it. If you do see a problem, consult with a mechanic about getting the problem fixed before it becomes a big issue. Never let something go. Always keep your vehicle in top running condition.

Here is a list of items you should check each month. Set aside a couple hours once a month to go over each item to make sure the basics are working properly.
1. Check the Engine & Ground for Fluid Leaks
2. Test Heater & Air Conditioning
3. Check Wiper Blades (Make sure the blades are in good shape, and function properly)
4. Check Headlights (High Beam & Low Beam)
5. Check Fog or Driving Lights
6. Check Turn Signals (Front & Back)
7. Check Hazard Lights (Front & Back)
8. Test Door Locks on All Doors
9. Inspect Windshield for Chips or Cracks
10. Test each Window (If Power Windows Check Each Switch)
11. Test Door Locks (If Power Locks Check Each Switch)
12. Check Radio & Make Sure Each Speaker Plays
13. Test Horn
14. Verify that you have your proper information in the glove box and the information is up to date (Proof of Insurance & Registration)

Every 3,000 miles or 90 days you want to perform these tasks:
1. Change Engine Oil & Filter
2. Check All Engine Fluids (Coolant, Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid, Windshield Washer Fluid, Transmission Fluid)
3. Check Tire Pressure & Tire Tread
4. Check All Belts for Cracks or Fraying
5. Check All Hoses for Leaks or Bulges
6. Lubricate Grease Fittings (Where Applicable)

Even if you have no idea about how to work on a car these tasks are simple and can be performed in your driveway. By doing this you WILL prolong the life of your vehicle and help to ensure that these problems don't pop up when you're on the road. If any one of these things that you check are not functioning properly it is time to fix it yourself, or take it to someone you trust to fix it. I will continue this series with more information about how to prolong the life of your automobile in the future.

*Disclaimer: Always consult your service manual for exact maintenance procedures. If you are uncomfortable with performing the maintenance yourself, contact a trusted mechanic to do the work.

How To Make Homemade Soap

Here is another post from a few months back by "S". It was submitted by the same "S" who wrote the article on how to brain tan hides. Bullseye posted this and it's another great write up from our friend "S". I did some slight editing on this article too, I'm sure "S" wouldn't mind, I didn't change the content. Thanks to "S" for this article!

How To Make Homemade Soap

There are only two ingredients required to make soap and yet soap making can be a very time consuming and difficult project. In order to make soap you will need fat and lye. Any type of fat will work but it must be cleaned by a process known as rendering. The fat is placed in a large pot and allowed to melt. Any meat, gristle or hair will sink to the bottom as the temperature rises. The liquid fat is carefully ladled off and stored. If the fat you were using was from a pig those deep fried pieces of skin would be called crackling’s and were considered by many to be a delicacy.

The second item needed is lye. In the early 1900’s lye, in a dry form, could be found in almost every general store in America. Today it is not so easy to find. Lye made from wood ash is called potash and can be made easily at home. You will need two containers. One large container (the bigger the better) and a smaller container. A 55 gallon plastic one is best and a drywall bucket is large enough for the smaller one. The larger container needs to be placed on a stable platform higher than the smaller one is tall. Gravity will do the most of the work.

Into the large bucket you will place a layer of packed straw. You will then add ash from a wood fire. The ash from fruit trees and hardwoods will produce the strongest potash. Some of the old time soap makers would use only one type of ash. They learned that certain species of wood produced the strongest potash. The stronger the potash the better the soap will be. About a gallon of water is then added to the large container. A small hole is put in the bottom of the bucket and the smaller bucket placed underneath. Some people allow the water to sit in the larger bucket before its drained off. A cork or stopper may be placed in the hole. Add a small amount of water daily until you have a working potash barrel. About a half a gallon will do.

As the water drips down through the ash and straw it leaches out the alkaline chemicals in the ash. That is what potash is, a basic acid. Acid when combined with fat produces soap. It’s a basic chemical reaction. The problem with making soap is the unpredictable strength of the potash. Potash suitable for making soap should be able to float a raw egg so that only a portion of the shell about the size of quarter should shows above the liquid. If the potash does not float the egg it is poured back into the large container and allowed to drip through again. It takes up to a week or more to get a gallon of potash. Ashes are continually added to the larger container.

Eventually the large container will need to be emptied and new straw and ashes added. Once you have potash strong enough to float an egg you are ready to begin the time consuming job of boiling the potash and fat together until it reacts sufficiently to make soap. Determining how much fat to add to potash is the difficult part. Too much potash and you will be stirring the mixture over a hot fire or stove for many hours, too little and you will end up with useless fat. It is better to have too much potash than too little. The most commonly used ratio is 1:1. Equal amounts of both fat and strong potash. The soap that you are used to seeing is not what this process will produce.

Until salt became an inexpensive item all home made soap was the consistency of jelly. Homemade soap of yesterdays era was like shower gel is to us today. To make soap hard salt must be added at the end of the process. The addition of salt allows the soap to set. If you add salt to your soap mixture you will need to place it in a pan, box or mold to harden. If you do not add salt you can use any container to hold your soap. Just remember that its easier to dip the liquid soap than to pour so choose a container with a large top opening.

Ground herbs, nut hulls, scented oils and colorings can be added once the process is complete but before you pour the soap into your containers. Hardened soaps are usually allowed to cure for a couple of weeks. Once cured they are cut and ready for use.

Contributed by "S"

Discuss this at the KPN Forum

How To Brain Tan Animal Hides

This post was originally from December of 2008. It was submitted by a guest who went by the name "S". Bullseye posted this article from the guest writer and it's such a good write up I wanted to re-post it. I also did some polishing of the article to make it a little easier to read. Thanks to "S" for this article!

How To Brain Tan Animal Hides

Brain tanning is an old method that is used to tan an animals hide. It’s also known as the open pore method. You will be making leather skins you will need to soak the skin in lye or potash to help loosen the hair so you can remove it by scraping. If you are making fur skins you will need to scrape all the fat and remaining meat particle from the skin side of the fur. Plant tannins are helpful after the skins been brain tanned, but using them alone will produce hard, inflexible skin only good for harness leather, boot soles and belts. No salt at all can be used when you plan to brain tan your animal skin.

To prepare the brains for tanning they must be removed from the skull. Once removed the brains are placed into a pot and mashed. An equal amount of water is added and this mixture which should be the consistency of pudding, is slowly heated until the pink color has changed to gray. The mixture is allowed to cool before applying to the skin. *The brain mixture can be applied without cooking if you find yourself in a position where a pot or fire is not possible. You will need to coat the skin evenly with the brain mixture. The skin is then folded skin to skin sides touching. The skin needs to be placed somewhere out of the sun and out of the reach of scavengers. Coyotes, possums and raccoons love the meal that a brain tanning skin provide.

After a few days you will need to check the skin to see if the process is complete. Take your thumb and first finger and pinch the skin between them. If the indentation of your fingernail remains on the skin side you are ready to rinse off the brains. If the impression does not remain you will need to allow the process to continue. Check your skin daily as the chemical reaction will continue and your hide will decompose into mush. The optimum temperatures for brain tanning will be daytime temperatures in the 60’s and evening temperatures in the 40’s. If its warmer the process will be faster and you may have flies attach your hide.

Wrapping the hide in cheesecloth will help prevent blow fly damage as will allowing a smoke fire to burn near a brain tanning hide. Brain tanning in the winter time takes a long time as the cooler temperatures do not allow the chemical reaction to occur. Brain tanning has a unique and not so pleasant odor and is not something you want to smell inside your house for a week. Generally speaking it will take a week to 10 days for a full sized white tail deer hide to brain tan. Once the process is complete you will need to rinse the hide in water to remove the brain mixture. If your hide is exceptionally dirty you can use mild soap (not detergent) to remove any residual dirt, blood or brains. Dawn dish soap works well as it strips the grease, dirt and debris and does not affect the hide.

Once the hide is clean you are ready to break the hide. Breaking is the process that makes the skin supple and soft to the touch. If you are working with a smaller animal such as a fox or rabbit you do not require any tools to break the skin. Grab a side of the hide with each hand and pull and tug as the skin is drying. Change the position of your hands often to ensure that you work all parts of the skin. Larger animals such as deer and elk will require that you place the hide on a frame or find some friends to help. Using strong twine you place the hide on a frame so that you can use a rounded end stick to push against the hide, breaking it in. Should you have friends you can each grab a section and pull and tug against each other. A fence post is handy to have for breaking larger hides. By using the fence post you and your friends pull the hide across the post helping to speed up the breaking process. Once your hide is broken its ready to be smoked.

Without smoking a brain tanned hide will get hard if it gets wet. If a brain tanned hide is smoked after tanning it can get wet and remain soft and pliable. A fire pit is dug and a trench dug leading up to the tipi frame. A small conical frame built from greenwood branches forms the tipi frame. A fire is made in the pit and allowed to burn down to coals. While the fire is burning down to coals you soak rotten wood in water. Your hide is placed on the small tipi frame skin side in. The trench is covered with rush mats, bark or a tarp to allow the smoke to rise from the fire pit into the tipi frame smoking the skin.

When the fire has died down to coals you add the water soaked rotten wood and cover the fire pit allowing the smoke to be drawn into the trench. The type of wood you choose will affect the color of the skin. Maple will produce a purplish color while hedge apple will produce a yellow tan. Oak produces brown colors the depth of which depends on the species. It takes approximately 3 adult white tail deer hides to make a shirt, leggings and breech clout for an adult. Hunting time not included it will take about a month to brain tan and smoke enough hides to cloth yourself. The additional time is spent soaking the fur skin in potash water prior to beginning the brain tanning process. That process adds an additional 2 days to the tanning process.

Contributed by "S"

Discuss this at the KPN Forum

How To: Hydration Bladder in ALICE Pack

The ALICE pack isn't pretty and it isn't fancy, but it's tough, rugged, and it gets the job done. It's big enough to carry all your get home bag, or your bug out bag gear and its big enough for camping and hiking needs. It's proven to hold up to even the roughest conditions and was used by the Army for decades. I purchased my ALICE pack used from Ebay and even though it is used it's still in great shape and ready for years of use.

There are many different companies and people on the web that modify and upgrade the ALICE packs. One useful and inexpensive upgrade you can do yourself is adding a hydration bladder to the pack. The radio pouch inside the main compartment of the pack is a perfect place to add your bladder.



Step 1:
You will need to purchase a hydration bladder to go inside your pack. Wal-Mart sells a 2L hydration bladder for $9.99. It comes with the bladder and hose for drinking from. You will also need a couple of (black preferably) zip ties.

Step 2:
Make sure you clean the bladder and hose thoroughly with a vinegar and water solution and let it dry completely. *It might take a couple days for it to completely dry out, but you don't want it getting moldy or stinky!

Step 3:
Once dried, add the bladder into the radio compartment. Lay it down horizontally with the hose on the side you want to drink from. *I took some electrical tape and blacked out the hose to give it a more camouflaged look, this is not required.

Step 4:
Route the hose out from under the flap, and along your left or right shoulder strap; whichever you prefer. Add a zip tie to the top buckle of the shoulder strap and slide the hose through it. *Don't tighten it yet!

Step 5:
Now you want to try on the pack and get the length of the hose right. You want enough to be able to get it in your mouth for a drink, but not anymore than that. Keep as little length of hose on the strap as possible so it doesn't get snagged on something.

Step 6:
Tighten up the top zip tie to keep the hose snug, but not so much that you still can't adjust it or that it pinches the hose any. Then you can add a zip tie to the bottom buckle on the strap, but keep this one open to about the size of a half dollar piece. This gives you a place to keep the mouthpiece when not in use. It will keep it from flopping around when walking or hiking, and make it easily accessible if you needed a drink. Once your hose is in the right place, stuff the remaining hose into the radio pouch with the bladder to give it a clean finished look.

And that's it! For around $10 and 30 minutes of your time, now you have a hydration bladder equipped ALICE PACK. This modification is cheap, easy, and useful. There are lots of other great packs out there but for the price and toughness, you can't beat an Army surplus ALICE pack.

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